Impressions: Dubai, Sharjah and Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates)
As I board the Emirates A380 jetliner enroute to Dubai, I think, “this is the toniest fucking plane I've ever been on:” a bi-level behemoth with opalescent gold stairs leading the way to business and first class, where one can not only enjoy a drink at the Onboard Lounge and a flat bed, but also a Shower Spa, complete with Bulgari toiletries! Flying economy class? Enjoy extra legroom, custom lighting, a “freshen up” kit complete with toothbrush, socks, sleep mask and earplugs in a cute waterproof, reusable pouch, tasty (by airplane food standards) meals and snacks, over 96 movies, 2500 channels and, supposedly, free Wi-Fi (it wasn’t working during our flight). From the handsome flight attendant that welcomed me with his thick black slicked back hair, impeccable creamy light brown complexion and piercing blue eyes to the pretty, blonde, statuesque Australian flight attendant who handed me the inflight menu, I felt comfortable and cared for as soon as I settled in. (I've the impression one is lucky, in the flight attendant world, to land a job with Emirates.) The entire flight was pleasant; I found myself looking forward to the 14-hour return flight!
Mid-flight, I looked up those milky, golden stairs. I saw nothing remarkable, though the stark division between classes, with the first class literally being above us, gave me pause. I was slightly more cognizant than usual of the feeling I get when I walk past the silly, cheap little curtains that separate classes on most commercial planes. This was to be the first of many instances I would come across during my five-night jaunt to Dubai, Sharjah, and Abu Dhabi. The division of wealth and class are stark here. Oil-money is a whole other level of “go-fuck-yourself-display” of wealth: sheikhs with crisp, white robes, perfectly-manicured beards, accompanied by women dripping in Givenchy and jewels, waited on by primarily Indian and other South East Asian natives, who provide a level of service heretofore unseen. From the couple of private cars I was privy to ride in, to the wait-staff at four-and-five star restaurants, I was awed and, slightly uncomfortable, by the level of service. It’s the same discomfort I get when I bump into a Latina maid cleaning a bathroom in the States—it’s a subtle jab that whispers, “this is classism,” or “this is racism, this is what it looks like. This is what it feels like.”
"People are people so why should it be? You and I should get along so awfully"
Side note: Emirates' entertainment includes a Depeche Mode playlist. #winning #top #depechemodefanforlife #depecheforever
The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a country of immigrants and expats. Of the approximately 9.1 million inhabitants, only 10% are UAE nationals. The remaining 90% are largely comprised of South East Asian nationals, with the majority hailing from India.
We stayed in Deira, which, I later learned, is looked down upon by some of the more well-heeled “New” Dubai dwellers. Deira is generally considered, as is Bur Dubai and Old Town, part of Old Dubai. I put “new” in quotes because it is not called “New Dubai.” There is simply “Dubai,” which, while it does denote the actual emirate of Dubai, is more often associated as the glitzy, beautifully creative skyscraper-laden area near the Marina. This video, while a few years old, is a fine enough primer for what I am referring to.
I loved Deira! We stayed at the Flora Grand Hotel off Al Rigga Road. The room was clean and comfortable, if a bit worn (i.e., the telephone was a telling shade of yellow, there was a negligible amount of mildew on the bathroom tile, and some of the wallpaper was bubbling). The breakfast buffet had a nice variety and, while the food was meh, it was filling. Moreover, it was a treat to try different Arabic, North African, and Indian breakfast goodies: labneh, foul mudammas, and puri with different chutneys, for example.
An hour or two after our evening arrival, a group of students approached me with concerns over the quality of the hotel and the safety of the neighborhood. The student population at Sotheby’s Institute of Art (sponsor of the trip) is predominantly wealthy. I knew, the minute I stepped into my hotel room, that some, if not all, of the students would complain. I’ve worked at the Institute for nearly six years; I know the demographic well. Their complaints were another little class jab, a softly kissed “fuck you.” It’s water off a duck’s back for me at this point, but still, knowing nothing about how it feels to be wealthy, I am always a wee disappointed and disgusted by that fear and aversion to anything “common.”
If Old Dubai is a dump by those standards, then Sharjah is a slum!
A lone kitten rules the roost on an empty side street in Sharjah between 1pm-4pm when all the shops are closed
We visited Sharjah primarily to explore the Sharjah Biennial, which took place across numerous sites in the Arts and Heritage Area. The architecture was simple and beautiful, very much in the traditional Islamic-style with lots of precise repeating elements, horseshoe arches, domes, and intricate tilework. One could almost taste the dusty warmth of the sun radiating off the sandstone structures. In the blazing mid-day heat, a breeze off the Persian Gulf was much welcome, if rare. The streets are barren between 1pm and 4pm, and all shops are closed. The energy in the area was quiet, yet palpable. It reverberated with the life of the bodies retired for a few hours. It's as if the inhabitants were there but not there.
Sharjah is more conservative and traditional than neighboring Dubai. While alcohol is legal for Non-Muslims in Dubai, Sharjah prohibits consumption and even possession of alcohol. Two non-married, unrelated people of the opposite gender cannot legally cohabit in Sharjah (unlike Dubai, where there are no such restrictions). Women are also much more likely to be covered up.
I generally enjoyed Sharjah more than Dubai because I like walking and quiet (both sorely lacking in New Dubai) and, to be fair, I simply spent more time there than in Dubai. Thus, it left a deeper impression.
My visits in Dubai were confined to the Al Quoz and DIFC (Dubai International Financial Center) gallery districts, the Madinat Jumeirah for Art Dubai, Al Bastakiya and Souk Al Wasl. In the world of Dubai souks, I classify this souk as squarely meh. There are infinitely better ones. I encourage you to visit those instead! (A colleague of mine was particularly impressed with the gold and spice souks).
Bargain hard! Know your max limit beforehand, and begin haggling at 50% of the initial price quoted. Don’t show the seller how much you covet the item. Play it cool. Nine times out of ten simply walking away will get you the price you want (or damn near close). I went to the UAE wary of bargaining and left with a real appreciation of it. While it is tiring, I enjoy a good haggle. Beware though: they bargain hard as fuck! It took a lot of effort to walk away because they would keep mouthing off prices and reasons why the deal they were offering was the best. Walking away determinedly while saying, “No. No. No. No. No, thank you,” should do the trick. Basically, if you are unsure, they will sense that and feed off it—Play. It. Cool.
I spent all of one day in Abu Dhabi and visited two sites there: the architecturally stunning Manarat Al Saadiyat Cultural Center (“a centre for enlightenment, culture and history”) and Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The Guggenheim Abu Dhabi will open its doors in Al Saadiyat eventually. You can see amazing renderings here. The Louvre Abu Dhabi will also have its home here. The impression I had of the very limited part of Abu Dhabi I saw was that it is a growing cultural and tourist center, with innovative architecture. I left wishing I had more time.
No travel impression would be complete without food. Fooodddddd….
The most memorable meal was a feast at Aroos Damascus Restaurant, a Syrian-owned business serving affordable and delicious Middle Eastern fare. The portions are generous so our group ate family-style. It averaged about $10 USD per person—ten dollars for a feast fit for a queen! My mouth literally watered over the hummus and fatoush salad. I tried a little bit of everything on the table and every bite was scrumptious and fresh. The meat is exceptionally seasoned, with the lamb kofta and chicken tikka being especially memorable. Afterwards, I walked up the block to Qwaider Al Nabulsi Sweets for some fresh, hot, and delectable kunafeh (a delicious sweet-syrup soaked cheesy pastry delight) and baklava. I waddled back to the hotel utterly content, if not a tad overstuffed. Did I really need the kanafeh and baklava? No. Do I regret getting both? No. Don't judge.
Much like Old Dubai and New Dubai, food runs the gamut from shab’ to chic. I did not have a single poor meal in the UAE. I had a “meh” meal at the Persian Danial Restaurant. What was fun about this place, though, was that it’s a buffet—a perfect place, in retrospect, for my first dinner in the country. I sampled a bit of everything and nothing was of poor quality, but nothing wowed me either. The price was about $14 USD per person, including a soft drink, water, or juice. We sat outside and the view was bleak: nondescript buildings, a little bit of neon, and a small body of water amidst a sandy, gray sky.
Offering way better views and a trip, in itself, to get to, Pierchic, located in the Madinat Jumeirah, was a different dining experience. A high-end establishment at the end of the pier—on most nights you can look down and see sharks swimming in the waters below--it offers a beautiful view of the sailboat-shaped Burj Al Arab, the most luxurious hotel in the world. Their fish carpaccio was one of the most visually pleasing dishes I have had the pleasure of eating—it was a work of art, a rainbow on a plate. It tasted just as good as it looked. Other than that, though, the food was fine—it’s a place to go for the experience, more so than the food. Basically, if you have the means, go for it! If not, you will not miss out just going to Aroos Damascus! 😉
During our day exploring Al Quoz galleries, I enjoyed lunch at Wild and the Moon, a Paris-based "chain" offering local, plant-based and ethically-sourced vegan dishes and raw, fresh juices and smoothies. After a long plane ride and the buffet dinner at Danial the night before, Wild and the Moon's fare was much welcomed and nourished me deeply. It was one of those meals where I could quite literally feel the nutrients coursing through my body!
Karma Kafe in the Dubai Mall was fun, if loud, and the pan-Asian fare was quite good, especially the sushi. We went on a Tuesday night and enjoyed their Sake in the City, a ladies’ night, where all women get three complimentary drinks! Their signature cocktails are sake-based and they were lovely. I was partial to the Yasodhara: sake, rose water and fresh lemon garnished with rose petals.
Overall, I left with the impression that it is easier to get a good meal here than, as is sometimes the case with tourists in popular destinations (here's looking at you Venice and Rome), a bad one. Maybe I didn’t look hard enough? I certainly didn’t have much time to wander around looking for bad food!
On the plane ride home, as I looked up the stairs to first class, I remembered a lie I would often tell as a child, a simple lie: that I had a pool in my backyard. As my classmates bragged about all the wonderful things they did over the summer, I would look back on my fun, yet humble, summer of running through the johnny pump, splashing around in a cheap inflatable pool in a tiny Brooklyn backyard, and somehow feeling I came up short. I didn’t go “anywhere fancy” and that made me feel inadequate. I didn’t visit family in Puerto Rico. I didn’t get on a plane. That old feeling of class inadequacy—I felt it again in Dubai as the maid at an old friend’s posh Marina apartment, opened the door to me. I was filthy from a day out riding in a 4 by 4 in the desert and swimming and soaking up the sun at JBR Beach—two things I highly recommend! The afternoon and evening camel-riding and belly-dancing trips to the desert surely make for a memorable experience too! A colleague of mine told me getting off the camel was the best part of riding one as they are uncomfortable! For another Dubai "wow" factor experience check out the aquarium at the Dubai Mall.
Anyhoo, I digress, as I caught up with my lovely friend, a bit of that childhood class inadequacy crept in. I am ashamed to admit I told one white lie—how I missed my serum here after going days without! What?!?!!! 1) I had just recently started using serum and it was some less than $25 shit I got on Amazon; and 2) Who. Gives. A. Fuck? Certainly, not my friend, who, if she was offended by my appearance or demeanor in any way, did not give a clue of it, but was, rather, the epitome of grace. Much like my childhood summers spent running through johnny pumps and the food at Aroos Damascus, these “simple” experiences hold the most appeal. A fish carpaccio dish that looks like a Kandinsky is nice, yes, but it will never, in my opinion, hold a flame to the plate of hummus, I enjoyed as a sweet little cat nestled at my feet outside a busy night street in Deira. Never.
